It's tempting to use the hybrid phrase "normkors," and the designer couldn't resist doing just that when presenting his Spring 2015 men's collection. It was fitting, not just because the clothes mixed classic American styles with Michael Kors' vision of global luxury, but because riffs on hybridization ran throughout the collection.
"Amalfi Americano" was the theme and that cultural mash-up found its way into almost every look. A sharply cut three-button suit was punched up by polished denim, sneakers became "snespadrilles" thanks to a rope detail on the sole. Fabrics weren't what they seemed—a hemp-linen anorak was gessoed for a less rigid waterproof finish. Sharkskin was rendered from cotton and mohair. The ultimate normkors look, a riff on a T-shirt-and-jeans look, was done with 8-ounce denim trousers and a linen T-shirt sweater. If anything, the collection was a bit heavy on the norm and light on the Kors. Subdued plaids failed to pop, and striped knits didn't stand out from other similar offerings in the mall. But even the most basic pieces, like the double-pleated pants and zip-up blouson, had an undeniable populist appeal.
Sandals and white linen shorts suit notwithstanding, Kors' Spring collection was a mostly seasonless affair. That's a good business decision—"It's January when we ship it," Kors remarked—and it affords a glimpse at the kind of smart, consumer-first thinking behind his vision of comfortable luxury. It's not for nothing that he's one of fashion's few designer billionaires.
