"I wanted to give men what they are familiar with," said Bally creative director Pablo Coppola. "We do not need to challenge our customers." With a genial demeanor in keeping with the Swiss brand's cultivated image, he glided between the displayed apparel and accessories, placing emphasis on the latter, in the new men's collection, taking particular delight in illustrating the heritage house's specialty: shoes. A standout among standouts, the Scribe Novo dress loafer was streamlined and more sophisticated than ever, while retaining its distinctive ridge at the small toe. Drivers, boat shoes, and monk-strap oxfords, too, looked as though they had reached their ideal, fully formed state. No more, no less.
Before joining Bally in 2013, Coppola served as Dior's senior accessories designer; prior to that, he put in time at Alexander McQueen, Burberry, and Céline. Coppola's cumulative luxury experience, combined with Bally's tried-and-true burnishing techniques, some of which date back to its founding in 1851, made for truly timeless, flawless footwear today, the kind that speaks for itself in whispered tones. Generously sized, masculine-shaped bags will also find plenty of takers. In winsome shades of tan, gray, and oxblood, they ranged from nautical to professorial.
Coppola said the small amount of clothing for Spring took its cues from the accessories. Comprehensible at a glance (which is an underrated concept), the pieces included gently retro Glen-plaid blazers, roomy knits such as artfully rumpled turtlenecks, cautiously striped and tapered slacks, and one copper-colored calf-leather biker jacket that would be difficult to improve upon. Another jacket, in a varsity style, could be reversed to hide the single stripe on the collar that, harmless though it was, might be deemed too risqué by someone somewhere.
