Ang Lee's 2007 thriller, Lust, Caution, which is set in China in the late thirties and early forties, was the starting point for Jenny Packham's Resort collection. Although it was generally pretty in Packham's typical, made-for-Kate Middleton way, a few of the looks were more sensual than usual. "I was inspired by the idea of presenting a collection of eveningwear that fused traditional Far Eastern style with Western fashions," said the designer, who often looks to films for inspiration.
Packham upped the sex appeal by using jewel-studded illusion tulle on a few of the necklines. For instance, a fitted magenta number in stretch crepe looked demure on the rack but offered plenty of clingy oomph when worn. An almost-minidress, beaded in an allover star pattern, had waistband side details that accentuated the natural figure.
The 1940s East-meets-West influence was quite subtle. Slight kimono sleeves appeared throughout, including on a white chiffon gown beaded with tiny pink-and-blue bugles. The embellishment on a flutter-sleeve V-neck dress had an Imperial feel. But when it came down to it, the references meant very little to the end result. Resort, for many designers, is about offering crowd-pleasing favorites that are almost guaranteed to be best sellers. On that front, Packham did well for herself.
