Why mess with success? Twenty-seven years along and Ennio Capasa shows no signs of reining in Costume National's hard-edged brand of sophistication. Here, a veritable parade of rock-and-roll influences were offered up, streamlined with help from the line's signature spruce tailoring. There was a girlishly Gram Parsons-esque fringed navy and black suede vest with studs (more debatably successful was its incarnation as a halter top) and a leather jacket accented by strips of exotic skins. Bursts of tie-dye felt timely; that trend came in off the commune long ago and is presently enjoying yet another runway revival. One louche black leather vest with oversize grommet closures would look every bit as lovely over a white T-shirt as it did styled with a liquid-y charcoal jumpsuit. Particularly keen were the menswear-inspired pieces, Costume National's bread and butter since time immemorial. To wit: A double-breasted jacket and palazzo pant in lush cobalt silk were downright arresting. Impeccable tailoring, upon inspection, boasted lovely raw edges nearly across the board (especially nice on starched, oversize shirt collars). But there was plenty here, from A-line camel skirts to billowing silk maxi dresses, for those who would just as soon take their seams fully intact. In Capasa's hands, rock and refinement made for a winning combination.
