The major takeaways from Phoebe Philo's Spring '15 collection for Céline were serenity, sweetness, and a surprising abundance of flowers. Philo acknowledged that she wanted to move away from the strict, edited look that the label has been known for, but the show wasn't a total about-face. Loosening up has been an ongoing process, as a click-through of the Resort collection—presented without pomp and circumstance back at the beginning of the summer in Paris but released online today as the clothes arrive in stores—proves.
Philo's big emphasis here was knits. Densely ribbed and boldly striped tunics topped full skirts that extended below the knee, clingy and cool, especially with the unexpected addition of chandelier rhinestone earrings. Earrings: They just keep getting bigger. Floor-grazing knit dresses in ivory or black were shown sans shoes, to emphasize, perhaps, feelings of unencumbrance and ease. Deep tiers of fringe at the hem of a sleeveless sweater looked like a starter run at the swishy masses of the stuff on some of Spring's key pieces. The tailoring, meanwhile, was as sharp as ever, but Philo made a point of diversifying. Pants were cropped with a kick flare above the ankle or pooled on the ground. For evening, she pitched jumpsuits, bare-armed or long-sleeve. Philo has put her stamp on the all-in-one since the beginning; the news was in the playful—yes, unencumbered—electric red and yellow pumps.
