It came as something of a surprise when Barbara Bui, who is known for her thoroughly French, rock ’n’ roll aesthetic, chose to riff on classic hip-hop codes for Resort. This season, the designer delivered a collection that combined urban, sporty elements with ethnic prints inspired by the Dong tribes in southern China. Opting for lightweight technical materials that achieved a dynamic movement, she showed utility jackets, dresses, and hooded tops in shiny parachute silk, which gave the impression that this girl might break into a sprint at any given moment. Many of the pieces were impressively convertible, encouraging multiple creative styling options. Tailored blazers boasted discreet zippers that quickly transformed the garment into a cape, for example; and what appeared to be an otherwise basic cotton shirt actually featured an outer layer that could be peeled down and tied around the waist. Elsewhere, the indigenous patterns added interest to weather-resistant windbreakers and novelty bomber jackets. Another highlight was the opening, structured hoodie cut from spongy neoprene, which was paired with Indonesian wrap pants in a satin-leather fabrication (the drop-crotch fit was a refreshing change of pace from Bui's staple second-skin leggings). Basics, including signature tuxedo separates and a versatile flyaway trench, rounded out the mix, and pointy flatform oxfords provided a cool alternative to standard sneakers, which have become a bit too obvious lately.
