Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren used their Pre-Fall collection to reevaluate French dressing. But which iteration or era did they have in mind? Homing in on houndstooth suggested a nostalgic view, yet this was no New Look redux. Technical nylon satin gave the patterns soft, sturdy body; a "graphic volant" (aka staggered frills) held its shape as peplums' pants remained roomy, not droopy. Variations on distorted tweed echoed the menswear; one, in printed patchwork, animated a flounced dress. Like the oversize acid yellow flower appliqués, it skewed noticeably younger than a coatdress in lace bonded atop neoprene, which fused ladylike and sport. This smart juxtaposition recurred throughout the collection, even as a styling device whereby sweetheart gilets appeared over turtlenecks. Some strong reworked basics, including an oversize ivory cable-knit sweater with an asymmetrical hemline and a well-tailored trench, offered versatility not always common to Viktor & Rolf. By that token, a one-shoulder dress with a cascading ruffle and exaggerated pleated placket seemed most reminiscent of the duo's earlier collections. You might even call it nostalgic.
