Pre-Fall marks the second season since Piazza Sempione was acquired by Sinv SpA, a group that also produces Love Moschino and See by Chloé. With newfound support, the label made a splashy return to the Spring '15 calendar with an art-influenced show. This season, the brand shifted gears and focused on the rich, well-made staples that Piazza Sempione is known for. "For Pre-Fall, we developed a collection to update our classic 'Made in Italy' aesthetic in a contemporary way," collection director Fabio Falleti said. That meant traditional craftsmanship mixed with high-tech materials. For instance, there was laser-cut "lace," a handmade paint-splatter print (inspired by Jackson Pollock), and needle-punch embroidery that lent an ombré finish to astrakhan-effect coats and snug sweaters. Many of the straightforward pieces had a twist: A navy cable-knit poncho seemed rudimentary at first, but a look at the back revealed a glossy, oversize goat-hair hood. Similarly, crisp trousers were chopped at mid-calf or at the knee, and some pieces were decorated with hand-brushed metallic paint. Those details might not make headlines, but they're just avant-garde enough for Piazza's well-heeled clientele to feel like they're taking a little risk.
