In Francesco Scognamiglio's Pre-Fall collection, two different sides of his inspiration were on display. One was romantic, ethereal, almost angelic; the other was darkly seductive and gothic. They both coalesced into some sort of rock-romantic look, reminiscent of the '70s, with a few exotic touches of bohemia thrown in for good measure. Long, fluid dresses in white crepe de chine would have been a dream for a languid Talitha Getty lounging on a terrace in Tangier; they were also pretty when printed in an abstract floral pattern. The black pieces had a sexier feel. Chiffon was encrusted with delicate lace for a lingerie-inspired see-through dress—one of the designer's favorite themes. Faux leather was embroidered with an intricate matelassé pattern of butterflies and leaves, as in a bomber jacket worn over a transparent ankle-skimming skirt. A minidress in silver paillette lace was topped with a gilet in black fox, upping the luxe factor. The Gianvito Rossi signature black napa leather thigh-high boots with a stiletto heel added an aggressive yet chic frisson. Flashes of red complemented the color palette with a dash of drama, a word whose meaning Scognamiglio, born in Naples—a city with a flair for tumultuous beauty and passion—understands perfectly well.
