"I'm the queen of the roses: This was how Franco Moschino was always calling me," said Anna Molinari, the petite dynamo behind Blumarine, on the day of her show. The collection she showed today certainly had a lot of roses, as well as frills everywhere, yards of volants, embroidery galore, and a sugar pink mink. Blumarine's girls are a posse of cute little divas (many as blond as the label's founder) tiptoeing seductively on kitten heels; it's no surprise that burlesque performer Dita Von Teese is a fan. The label's hyper-feminine, ultra-sweet look has sometimes verged on the saccharine, and there have been occasions when you might leave a presentation feeling as if you'd eaten too many macaroons. But in recent seasons the collections have registered the need for change and a more modern, cleaner look. That feeling was present in this Pre-Fall presentation, which felt more concise and fresh, feminine but not too girly, playful but with a more streamlined feel.
The infamous roses were given a geometric spin and a touch of drama, as in a long chiffon dress printed in black and dark red. They were reduced to a gold pattern embroidered on silk mesh for a body-hugging sheath, and were transformed via abstract Technicolor appliqués scattered on a body-con minidress with lavender mink trimmings. New techniques like decoupage and hand-cut assemblages with a 3-D effect added a touch of dynamism and a sense of movement. Macramé lace, a perennial Molinari favorite, was more substantial and less dainty than usual, as in a pair of black evening pants that ended just above the ankle, worn with a simple black cashmere turtleneck. It made for a feminine yet contemporary look.
