The general election in Sweden last September got Acne Studios' Jonny Johansson thinking about the Feminist Initiative, the country's left-wing political party. Though it didn't garner enough votes to earn a seat in parliament, the Initiative became something of a national cause célèbre for furthering gender equality today. Free association took him to broader sartorial notions of feminism, with particular focus on the early 20th century when women began to express their independence by borrowing from menswear and playing competitive sports.
The collection began with a lilac sweater that swirled around the model's body, completely constricting her arms. What the giant knit had to do with independence isn't clear, but one could argue that it captured the offbeat, irreverent essence of the Acne Studios brand. Next came a sporty suit in zippered, sandy twill belted with a stylized bungee cord, followed by a roomy wrap coat in ivory boiled wool paired with abstracted houndstooth jacquard leggings. Tweed took many alternative forms, whether as an organza underpinning creeping out from a skirt or a reworked knit pattern. It also came padded on jacket lapels and pockets—and this detail alone was proof enough that the collection didn't get stuck in the past.
But there was more to excite: Beyond the white turtlenecks, which confirmed a vaguely alpine theme (the models' ponytails looked like icicles), versions appeared in Solstiss lace under ski sweaters. The trickle-down of this look is guaranteed. As for the Say No to Drugs patches, they are an inside joke between Johansson and a friend in recovery. If not feminist-themed, they count as a rallying cry.
