Fashion companies are increasingly turning to contemporary art to elevate their profile, and that's what Piazza Sempione did this season. The label's Fall collection was presented in a stark showroom with a video installation/performance by Italian VJs Souldesigner. The lineup was set on plinths against a wall where abstract patterns were projected; microchips attached to the soles of the models' shoes changed the backdrop visuals according to the outfit they were wearing. To amp up the artistic quotient, Pollock-inspired digital graphics in muted colors were printed on wool short skirts and jackets, or on streamlined melton coats and tunics worn over cropped flared pants.
The look was relaxed and fluid, wearable and comfortable; volumes and proportions were controlled and easy. Fabrics like baby llama, wool flannel, fil coupe, shearling, and leather with mink intarsia were luxurious yet subtle. A touch of peacock blue gave a chromatic jolt to a mostly neutral palette. Geometric motifs in black and white continued the decorative theme; they were woven in wool jacquard bouclé for a poncho worn askew over kick-flare pants. It added a bit of whimsy to an otherwise minimalist, urban silhouette.
