Is Ermanno Scervino doing…flats? You looked twice at the models strutting on the catwalk during his show today, just to make sure fashion fatigue hadn't hit you hard enough to blur your vision. But no, those were actually masculine bicolored lace-ups—as flat as can be—worn with a tailored black Le Smoking. Still, the shoes were heavily embellished, and a puff of filmy French lace seemed to sprout up from a sheer blouse, so it was apparent that Scervino's über-feminine style and love for glamour were still in place. This was confirmed by a series of looks featuring a very womanly silhouette. The dresses came with tiny, cinched waists blossoming into ballerina skirts whipped up like a soufflé. The coats were sumptuous in mink and astrakhan—they seemed ready to be wrapped around the shoulders of a purring Italian diva. Elsewhere, a more modern feel came from military accents and some masculine/feminine play.
Corsets and tops with crystal embellishments galore were paired with houndstooth wool coats and dresses with geometric fur intarsia. To add to the luxe, there was a couture-ish version of a sporty duvet coat: White and voluminous, it hid a stiff corset inserted at the waist to make its shape round and sexy, enhancing the hips for an undulating, sensual walk.
