Andre Walker's third And Re collection may have been smaller in scale than his previous outing, but it was larger in scope. Walker was taking on fashion history, confronting vintage glamour tropes and slyly reinterpreting them in the service of creating a down-to-earth, modular wardrobe. His feathery mohair knits may have featured a Deco-esque pattern and some dramatic, wing-like draping in back, but they were pieces with a sense of ease, meant to be worn on their own or interchangeably with, say, a nipped-waist vest in Harris tweed or an ankle-length, tailored dress. The vest, meanwhile, could work solo or layered, paired with a long pencil skirt or clever slouchy trousers. And so on. Modular clothes typically err on the basic side, the better to be mixed and matched; Walker showed his nerve here by piling on the flourishes, such as a sculpted collar on a blazer or a sinuous hood on a bustier dress. The effect was eccentric but never mannered, and for all the vintage referencing going on, the clothes didn't read as contrived or precious. As Walker explained, his modus operandi was to modernize his references by roughing them up. Nowhere was that clearer than in his distinctive outerwear—surely due to be a hit at retail—which featured semi-grubby cotton or cotton-blend faux fur that Walker said was totally compostable. ("Everything in this collection can be burned," he commented.) One coat with a certain down-at-the-heels appeal came in a beige faux fur; elsewhere, Walker's top-notch water-resistant anoraks featured faux-fur lining in contrasting colors. These items were some of the most instantly accessible that the designer has created; likewise his draped wool tees made from one continuous piece of fabric. Glam made easy: Who doesn't want that?
