Sandro, a brand determined to bring sleek Parisian style to a widening market, made its foray into men's fashion week with a jacket covered in patches of flyers featuring bygone American punk bands. Vive les Circle Jerks! Seven years after spinning off the successful womenswear line into a men's range, a tight presentation of 25 looks signaled that Sandro is ready to raise its fashion cred. Creative director Ilan Chetrite (who just so happens to be the son of womenswear creative director and founder Evelyne Chetrite) explained backstage that the collection was meant to capture a broad spectrum of the city's archetypes: the musician, the young businessman, even the chauffeur who appreciates the importance of a slim suit and tie. Different strokes for different folks—but in this case, the move seemed particularly strategic as Sandro broadens its retail presence in addition to increasing its stand-alone stores. Since this was a Fall collection, outerwear—parkas with unzipped hoods that splayed into collars, versatile utility jackets, and salt-and-pepper car coats—became the common denominator between post-punk poseur and junior executive. Chetrite made a point of saying that the line puts out clothes that men want to wear, that it's not an "experimental boutique." So then what to make of the high-waisted, light-wash denim, cropped just enough to reveal white socks? On anyone other than virile boys, this look might qualify as Soccer Dad. Or perhaps Sandro is betting that it can position this as New Wave normcore—although Nouvelle Vague sounds catchier.
