Straight up from afar, perhaps just a bit twisted on approach, and with some giddy jolts when your eyes set to macro, this Marc Jacobs collection was a little treat. Seaming your check suit pants with sweat-appropriate overlock stitching is a light-of-touch yet arresting de-formalizing tweak. A librarian's tank top came in gently abraded leopard print perfect for extrovert nerds, and a French terry merino sweatshirt could be turned inside out for a ribbed day-two option. Cashmere silk sweats had a hidden polyamide layer that provided a spongy springiness. An M65 came lined in beaver so its wearer could look like De Niro but feel like Trump. And who knows how the Jacobs team achieved a suiting material that looked like straight-up check from a distance but was reduced to static at close range. As we looked at a staple pilled cashmere sweater, Marc Jacobs' menswear designer Karl Aberg commented: "It's a very Marc thing to take something that's very high end and treat it a little rough." Tough love.
