If you think these pictures are gloomily lit, they have nothing on Haider Ackermann's presentation itself. Attendees stood 10-deep in front of a minimally illuminated line of Ackermann-clad models, who shuffled about for a couple of minutes or so before going into an equally inky room next door—to thunderous applause—where they lingered to drink at a bar and be examined by those who followed. Ackermann said the idea was to be able to "smell the clothes." By this, he meant that this was an evocation of their essence, rather than a chance for a forensic going-over. To my mind, it made for a counterproductively indulgent presentation, but to be fair there was a certain logic in choosing a dark and elusive backdrop for a collection rich in fabric, color, and Ackermann's truly virtuoso facility for extravagant ruche and extraneously decorative twist. Decadent and dandyish, these are don't-give-a-damn clothes for men who really, really do.
