Rich and humble. That's how Damir Doma described the work of the "fiber artist" Sheila Hicks that inspired the stratified, hole-peppered, patch-knit material in this collection. But those words apply just as well to the rest of Doma's Fall '15 study in texture and touch. Like so many this season, this menswear collection was flecked with women's Pre-Fall, and here the two genders rubbed up against one another with particular sympathy and, where appropriate, symmetry. For the men, a women's knit dress shortened into a sweater, differently textured at the arm, shoulder, and body, each section demarcated by a worried woolen ridging. High, accented-pleat felt trousers were held by long, thin leather belts decorated with horn ovals; a skewed shawl collar was worn over a scarf in the same material that provided ovoid extensions. This was gently abstract stuff—Doma says he thinks of himself as a sculptor—but his soft-shouldered cashmere overcoats were gut-level desirable. Finely done, bar the nipple-flashing yellow cashmere under-sweaters.
