Jay Vosoghi broke an arm on the slopes over the holidays; he was cut up by a snowboarder. However, even thus disadvantaged, Boglioli's men's design director had a firm grasp of his Fall '15 aesthetic. "It's the Milan bourgeoisie from the '60s—a bohemian, relaxed feel," said the designer. This hazily assumed collective memory that back in the day Lombardy's great and good were unanimously attired with a modernist-meets-Oscar Wilde loucheness seems suspicious, but whether myth or not, it got Vosoghi fired up. This was a rich and deep collection from a brand that not long ago was known primarily for its unstructured blazers. Teal, orange, and vicuña (the color, not the beast) fought it out in an opening section notable for shortened dart-less jackets in shaved velvet and French (aka jumbo) cord trousers. Outerwear roomy enough to call a studio apartment in some cities fell straight but acquired shape through fastidious belting. One dégradé jacket—sfumato, Vosoghi called it—was perhaps dandy-only, but otherwise this collection's boldest statements were in the whispered frictions of textures and pattern, before a retreat into the gloomy comfort of grays.
