Ease has been a key talking point over the last couple weeks of Resort shows. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli work in the relative isolation of Rome, but they're feeling the new, relaxed mood, too. They do it the Valentino way, of course. There's nothing undone about their new collection, but it does mark the first time they've ever put denim in the lineup. They created four styles, but the one they're really getting behind is high-waisted, full through the leg, and cropped a couple inches above the floor. Casual pants, never a Valentino specialty, are another new focus for the duo. Other daywear pieces have the familiar look of uniforms—military, schoolgirl, maybe even a shade of factory worker in a pink pleated jumpsuit.
It's harder to convey that sense of ease for evening. The pieces that came closest, in multicolor floral macramé embroidery on what looked like raw linen, were the best. A double-layer white tee worn with a narrow, midi-length skirt in that embroidery had a folksy appeal that felt fresher than the fluorescent pieces that were the designers' other focus for after-dark. It'd be fascinating to see them adapt those earthier ideas on their Couture runway next month.
