In three short seasons, Natalie Ratabesi has breathed new life into Philosophy, and the designer's new Resort lineup proved that she still has plenty of ideas for jump-starting Alberta Ferretti's younger brand. In place of the froufrou frocks that previously crowded many a Philosophy collection were modern, romantic clothes with real-world appeal. The slim overalls paired with a bell-sleeve peasant blouse and wide-brimmed hat was the kind of outfit you could imagine someone like Alexa Chung rocking on the music festival circuit. Ditto a tie-dye-effect denim jacket with an oversize, borrowed-from-the-boyfriend fit, which was shown with matching shorts, and an ikat look that was hand-painted for a funky, not folksy feel.
Elsewhere, Ratabesi proved that she can do the clean and minimal thing, too. Flattering shift dresses cut from crisp white poplin featured sheer organza insets, while another fit-and-flare number was done in a neoprene mesh that gave the classic silhouette a sculpted sportiness. For evening, Ratabesi played with transparency on a long-sleeved column gown with a peekaboo hemline and whipped up a memorable python-printed maxi number with fluid pleats that was nothing short of a bohemian rhapsody. Keep up the good work, Natalie.
