Like most designers, Veronica Etro doesn’t use the pre-collections for extreme innovation or making superbold statements; they are designed for the Etro woman and her dressing needs. However, the line does go in a new direction this pre-fall when it comes to that thing the house is most famous for: print. Usually, Etro layers patterns over one another for one mishmashed motif (see spring’s florals transposed over paisleys). But this season, prints have been separated out—that signature paisley alternated with a “crystallized” stripe that resembles a reflected skyline; a blown-up cravat-print trimming a black-and-white paisley.
So what does it mean for the clothes? For one, it adds structure to well-tailored but simple silhouettes. It also lends femininity to what is otherwise a fairly masculine offering. Trousers are inspired by menswear, but chicly cropped—and sometimes cuffed, like one black keep-forever duchesse satin pair—it should be noted. So are jackets. One is made of Prince of Wales check, but has colorful metallic thread woven through its bouclé. There are tuxedo ruffles on a dress and one flirty and flattering little skirt, but those aren’t fussy in the least. The collection goes for that very desired balance of refinement with novelty and feminine menswear and hits it on the mark.
