Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier's debut for Marc by Marc Jacobs went off with a bang. The men's clothes, designed by Karl Aberg and Spencer Phipps, are no longer being shown alongside the women's on the runway, but there's an obvious back-and-forth between the two offerings. The Fergus Purcell-designed graphics turned up in both places, as did the karate-cargo jackets and the platform high-tops. Where the women's collection was heavy on accordion pleats and manga bows, the men's lineup was rounded out with giant puffers. And if anything, the motocross/skateboard/BMX vibe will go over even bigger with MBMJ's male customers, who are already shopping streetwear labels where this kind of hybridization is happening in a major way. When we saw the collection, the showroom was buzzing with energy; you could practically hear the ka-chings. That must be music to Marc Jacobs' ears as he readies the company for a much-discussed IPO.
