What to make of this show? Monochrome clubland, the music ("the one and only dominator," a pounding blast from the past) making the clothing entire incidental. What clothes there were included white shirts, black pants, or shorts, some accents of denim, pink and leopard, the odd dinner jacket to remind you this was supposed to be a nocturnal experience, and shin guards to keep the dogs at bay. The action was all around the neck, with strands of chain and darkling doodads, or skinny black ties, or shiny placket action. But it was scarcely enough to sustain an entire collection. Dean and Dan Caten free-associated through the notes they wrote. Legendary British stylist Ray Petri got a passing nod, and one supposes there was something of his hard-boy ethos in the purposeful stomp of the Dsquared² boys. But the Catens used to have their own irresistible drive, and it was kind of bewildering to see it so thoroughly stalled here.
