Edgy draping has been the MO at Helmut Lang for the last couple of years. Nicole and Michael Colovos felt like it was time to switch things around. The new Resort lineup is still recognizably cool, but it has a boxier, slouchier look. "We wanted something more boyish," Nicole said. Jackets had a new squarish, cropped shape and pants were cut full through the thighs. The same mannish proportions applied to a great-looking coat in black wool with ponyhair sleeves; where once those sleeves would've been narrow with high armholes, these were full and relaxed. Such small details might seem inconsequential to the uninitiated, but the Colovoses will tell you they're the difference between tomorrow and yesterday. An abstract print inspired by the feather sculptures of the artist Kate MccGwire wasn't necessarily innovative—the contemporary market that the label dominates is digital print-crazy—but it looked cool on both an easy dress and an even easier pair of pants in soft jersey.
