After channeling nineties-era supermodels on their Spring runway, Dean and Dan Caten did a total 180 and gave their pre-fall collection a "Lady Sings the Blues" theme, with Jasmine Tookes doing her best Billie Holiday for the designers' lookbook. Out went the quilted leather and glam gold chains, and in came more demure pieces with a distinctly forties look. Curve-hugging pencil skirts in herringbone tweed were shown with snug short-sleeved cardigan sweaters belted at the waist. A cool pair of rust-colored corduroy trousers had a similar nipped-in silhouette, but were cut wide and relaxed throughout the leg. The eveningwear was sexier than the rest of the lineup and felt somewhat truer to the label's aesthetic. The finale number—a ruby red silk crepe gown with a dramatic low, draped back—had that familiar Dsquared² pizazz.
