Costume National's pre-fall collection hit on biker, military, and tuxedo themes. Designer Ennio Capasa knows that having a go-to coat makes tackling cold climes that much easier, and there were several outerwear pieces here that should make the CN customer look forward to bundling up. An oversize cobalt topper with a detachable hood (big blue riding hood, anyone?) and a short double-breasted jacket with a built-in vest in the same shade both made an impact. Capasa incorporates asymmetric elements into each of his collections, and added a touch of softness to a half tuxedo dress with a pleated chiffon skirt. For evening, Lurex-flecked takes on the classic Le Smoking stood out; we would choose those over this lineup's somewhat shapeless black gowns anytime. If the clothes came off a bit too safe, you couldn't say that about the shoes, which reportedly make up about 50 percent of Costume National's business. The architectural over-the-knee boots were a high point.
