I Want You, Nicola Formichetti and Romain Kremer's latest show seemed to be saying, for the Mugler army. But despite a new martial insignia—MuglAIR—and a host of what looked like battle-ready outfits, including Velcro-closed "bulletproof" vests, flight jackets, and bombers, there were fewer convincing reasons than usual to enlist this time around. Radioactive neon suits and knits were eye-opening, but much of the military-inspired pieces that accompanied them were silly. Excursions from reality often are, though Formichetti insisted that hyperrealism—"the ability to become somebody else in the digital world," he wrote—was the point. Sifted for its most salable components, the collection has parts, like its tough suiting, that should have a second life at retail. The rest is destined for LARP.
