"Our girls don't do resort," said Nicole and Michael Colovos by way of explaining the cool, urban attitude of their latest collection for Helmut Lang. Where other labels are showing swimwear and getaway gear, their lineup is keyed more to the brisk weather typical of November, when the clothes arrive in stores. HL customers in the market for outerwear will find a lot to like here, a heathered gray wool puffer jacket with quilted charcoal leather sleeves in particular. A lightweight cashmere suit and a matching draped, strapless dress had a similar buy-now, wear-now appeal.
The husband-and-wife duo have a thing for black and gray, but they've heeded the recent clarion call for color. Leigh Lezark wore their saffron-y asymmetric sheath to Monday night's CFDA Fashion Awards, and there were more brights in the showroom, from a sienna red to mustard. An overdyed pair of orange jeans will connect with the label's fans, likewise a sweater with cutouts at the shoulders and the tonal asymmetrical skirt it was paired with. The clothes' asymmetry was inspired, rather esoterically, by a book of Jan Kempenaers' photographs of Spomeniks. Monumental sculptures commemorating World War II found all over Yugoslavia, they were once tourist attractions but are now neglected and falling into disrepair. Something tells us this wearable collection won't suffer a similar fate.
