The Sonia Rykiel pre-fall collection was a salute to Surrealists including Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp, and Salvador DalĂ. In keeping with the theme, every piece was in some way distorted to achieve a dreamlike effect, as though you were looking at the clothing through a crystal ball. Nonlinear seams popped up frequently: A wavy tuxedo stripe snaked down the sides of crepe trousers, while undulating hemlines and an asymmetrical teardrop cutout added a touch of the unexpected to a stretch piquĂ© shift.
The design team followed through with patterns, too, blurring the house's signature kiss to make a "cloud lips" print, and blowing up Cubist checks for a refracted shadow appearance. At times, the "unconscious" concept went too far. Novelty motifs in the form of brooches and embroideries—masked pears, swallows, and batting eyelashes, among others—detracted from what was a very wearable collection on the whole. Still, we'll definitely be dreaming about the on-trend thick leather belts, as well as a versatile parka and the lush color-blocked fur vests.
