MaxMara's designers were name-dropping New York for pre-fall, an admission of sorts that, even for European brands, pre-fall has become an NYC-centric season, with cartloads of labels from Paris and Milan shipping in collections to keep American stores and press sated. The High Line in particular was a point of reference. As a green space amid an industrial block, you could see how the walkway would strike the right note for MaxMara, which balanced minimal lines with bright, spring-y colors like persimmon and poppy in largely monochromatic looks. There were wools and shearling among the offerings, but also one of the brand's famous coats shorn of its sleeves, a concession to the collection's May '12 arrival date.