Structured tailoring is essential to the heritage of Genny, an Italian label that's trying for a revival at the hands of Milan up-and-comer Gabriele Colangelo. Fittingly, Colangelo opened his second collection for the brand with an innovative riff on the tuxedo, converting it into a red cocktail dress with plunging satin revers and a sheer tulle back. Coat-dresses in the same sleek, streamlined vein followed; they were the most confident things about this uneven show. In contrast, a dress made from fitted python on one side and pleated floral-print organza on the other was misjudged. Likewise, flesh-colored bandeaux with a single horizontal stripe through the middle didn't suitably address the see-through issue on other frocks and blouses. The way forward for Colangelo at Genny is not to come up with wardrobe problems, but solutions.
