Since Peter Copping arrived at Nina Ricci a year ago, fashion has moved in a decidedly minimalist direction. But that hasn't tempted Marc Jacobs' former right-hand man at Louis Vuitton to go spare. "There are no camel coats here," the designer said, laughing, at an informal presentation this morning. Loosely inspired by Jackie Onassis and her 1960's Greece, the Resort collection is awash in cherry pink, blush, and soft neutrals, with shots of fluorescent pink courtesy of delicate bras and a retro-ruffled bikini. Fabrics like washed parachute silks, pleated georgettes, and lingerie lace add to the ultrafeminine feeling of the lineup.
Tailoring was a surprise hit on Copping's Fall runway, so he's continued to expand the category here in signature Ricci style, turning out a softly structured piece-washed jacket and loose tuxedo pants with pleated front panels or an unlined, raw-edged trench (contrast piping on its interior meant the latter number was just as pretty on the inside). Eveningwear, though, is where this designer's eye for the charming detail really shines. An ivory- and white-lace fitted T-shirt dress worn over a peach slip will have its celebrity fans, but stylists will be scrambling over a classically draped cerise pink gown with multiple bows up the back. Why? It has that winning combination of looking effortless yet making a major impact.
