Donna Karan opened her pre-fall show with a new collection of everyday clothes. "Lifestyle" is what it's called in the business, and it's a natural for this designer. With its army greens and steely grays, its draped and ruched layers, and its washed leather jackets and fur wraps, the offering won't look unfamiliar to Karan's longtime fans. But it will certainly appeal. The vibe might be more relaxed, more "street," but that sweater (one of the seven new easy pieces the line is built on) is still cashmere. The other layer-friendly items include a T-shirt dress, a washed silk top, a jersey tee, a skinny pant, a biker jacket, and a shearling—all priced 25 percent lower than Karan's signature collection.
The earthy yet urban palette was just one of the through lines between the new collection and the dressier designs that followed. Back for pre-fall were the rounded and padded shoulders that Karan built her business on in the 1980's, when, of course, she launched her first Seven Easy Pieces collection. They gave her jackets and coats a confident, sexy boost. As for the skirts and trousers she paired with them, the former were lean and ruched to a few inches below the knee, and the latter came high-waisted and full. Evening wasn't her focus this season; she showed just three of her familiar goddess gowns. The last, in a misty green cupro satin, had an extra shot of glamour, proof that Karan can do awards night as readily as everyday.
