When Phoebe Philo accepted her Designer of the Year statuette from the British Fashion Council last month, she was wearing an all-in-one from the pre-fall collection she officially unveiled this week. Deceptively simple, it turns out on close inspection to feature an invisible, built-in corset that allows the strapless jumpsuit to fall in a graceful line from the bust to the hem of its full pants. As ever, the inner workings of Philo's garments are just as important to her as what's visible on the outside. The linings of dogstooth coats inspired by members of the 1950's British underground are bonded and taped—and eye-catching enough that you might be tempted to wear the pieces inside-out. As at her Spring show, fabric play was an important theme. Raw Japanese denim of different shades was pieced together with geometric precision to create a trompe l'oeil dress (one of Philo's favorite looks from the extensive collection), and Harris and Shetland tweeds came patchworked to create what the designer calls "modern urban camouflage."
There's nothing more essential to the urban warrior's uniform, of course, than a statement coat, and Philo had plenty on offer in a sartorially driven collection that was very much in keeping with her evolutionary approach to Celine. Her acolytes will have a tough time choosing between a wool felt duffel paneled with iridescent PVC, and, on the more feminine side, a leopard-printed calfskin style or a shearling, goat, and curly lamb topper that will ring up for $6,800. There was variety in her accessories lineup, too. The popular Luggage bag is now available with a wider bottom and side straps, and Philo has introduced the Triptych top-handle bag, which has three zip-close compartments. She's also flexing her funny bone, adding gold etchings of makeup and loose change to cosmetics bags and coin purses, respectively. The seen-everywhere clogs have also gotten an update in new colors and with Velcro closures. In a word, or four, they look like money in the bank.
