DKNY opted to present its latest men's collection on a brigade of models at a pawn-shop-cum-restaurant on the Lower East Side. The setting was baroque, but the clothing was, for the most part, streamlined and austere. The palette didn't stray far from cityscape colors—concrete grays and silver, dusky slate blues—that lent focus but left the whole a little light on spark. "Modern military" was the theme of the season, expressed by the panels of nylon trimming polos and sweaters and the polyurethane coatings that lent outerwear an all-weather sheen.