Fittingly, on this chilly December day in New York, Thakoon Panichgul presented a pre-fall collection intended to evoke warmth. How, exactly? "Through the use of fabrics that envelop the body," the designer explained. The results were earthier and more organic, though no less wearable, than the sporty looks he showed for Spring. Riffing on the classic white shirt, he showed a belted Watteau-back shirtdress that was at once streamlined and voluminous, as well as a more fitted style that had buttons snaking across the torso. He played with scarf trims in creative ways, edging draped skirts and adding visual interest to elaborately manipulated frocks he described as "all-in-one self-styling" (translation: there's so much going on, you don't need any additional elements). Panichgul, whose new shoe line debuts this spring, had his first go at producing cold-weather footwear here, and the slouchy wedges and suede peep-toe booties he's come up with are sure to be among next winter's most covetable styles.