Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi opened their first shop on Portobello Road in 1996, and according to their pre-fall liner notes, "a nineties West London vibe" influenced the wide-ranging collection. In fact, the black blazerlike wrap dress and sheer chiffon men's shirt are both updates to original Preen silhouettes. It wasn't all throwback pieces, though. In a nod to the current postapocalyptic military trend, the duo layered a slashed-up gauzy sweater over an army green slipdress studded with gold crystals. Fans of the designers' bodacious eveningwear, meanwhile, will appreciate the new Power dress cut in shiny black nylon, as well as a lace minidress with a sweetheart neckline. The latter is more classic than Preen's typical fare, but even the most conceptual dresser needs options in her closet.