There's always been as much science as there is art in an Issey Miyake collection. Dai Fujiwara consolidated the connection with Fall's offering, inspired by the revolutionary mathematician William Thurston's geometric models for the shape of the universe. As abstract as that sounds, the result was an often breathtaking evolution of last season's rainbow-nation tribalism. After the show, Fujiwara and Thurston wrapped themselves for the press in a long stretch of red tubing to make the point that something that looks random is actually (according to Thurston) "beautiful geometry."
The same idea was explored in outfits that were draped in ropes of knit tubing, or jackets piped to mirror the mathematician's graphic formulae. The twists and turns of quilted, ruched, ribbed, and shirred pieces were also Thurston-inspired. Maybe it was the rigor of mathematical thought that loaned the collection more structure and elegance than it's had previously. It was especially obvious in spectacular coats and jackets, like the funnel-collared coat in orange tweed; or a cocoon of tweed woven with silver lamé; or a biker jacket, also in tweed. The cocoon shape appeared again in layered knits that were as fine as mousseline. And, speaking of fine, the very last piece sealed the deal on a splendid collection. It was a coat made from squares of translucent black organdy, stitched with stars that looked to be shining.
Two decades ago, in the same venue, Romeo Gigli transfixed Paris with a show so rich and romantic that it moved its audience to tears. Maybe that didn't happen today, but, at the very least, Fujiwara used his inspiration to blend art and science in a manner so rich and romantic, it stirred the emotions in a way that reminded us of Gigli.
