Anne Valérie Hash's program notes explained that she's been focused on ease. We're all for that, with the exception of her evening looks, which we'll get to later. Jackets with pushed-up sleeves came with a ribbed knit panel down the back to give them the cool, slouched-on feel of an oversize cardigan, and men's trousers cut off below the knee were literally drooping off one hip, exposing the sheer leggings or printed pj's Hash layered underneath them.
Her signature jumpsuits were back, this time either tailored and belted or in roomy silk that she draped at the neckline to play matte against shine. The relaxed, woman-friendly mood extended to tees and long T-shirt dresses, which were pinned and tucked in places to look like a single flower. Elsewhere, they were embroidered with frogging (a holdover, like the multicolor sequins of a blouson jacket, from the designer's clever Couture show, in which she transformed or reassembled personal wardrobe items from Alber Elbaz, Tilda Swinton, and Pete Doherty, among others).
Hash revisited the shiny technical fabric she used for Spring to create blousy T-shirts and accordion-pleated minis for evening. The colors—emerald, sapphire, and amethyst—were gorgeous, but it was a bit perplexing to see so much sheer fabric (and exposed skin) on a female designer's runway. A greater achievement would've been to show how women can wear those looks in real life.
