What's a house built on its fur business to do during times like these? Gilles Mendel zeroed in on daywear for pre-fall, showing slim, short-sleeved shifts and skirtsuits à la Jackie Kennedy. Not that there was anything bare-bones about them. The former came with hand-stitched facings along the seams for extra eye appeal, and the latter were lined in soft pink charmeuse. And no, Mendel didn't forgo the fur entirely. But instead of full-length foxes and minks, he focused mostly on chic little vests and bolero shapes and opted for more wallet-friendly furs like squirrel. Evening was another matter: Sparing no expense, he draped four-ply georgette into 1930's siren gowns.