Christian Lacroix titled his pre-fall lineup "A Rigorous Winter," but, never fear, the designer retained his signature joie de vivre. The racks were full of great party dresses—from full-skirted florals to lacy L.B.D.'s to goddess gowns. Not that Lacroix's dancing on the rim of a volcano: There was more than enough room for smart, oversize boyfriend coats in the vast collection. "Sometimes masculine attitude turns out to be more feminine than ever," he explained in his program notes.