The Harlem jazz scene of the thirties and forties was Diane von Furstenberg's starting point for pre-fall. Picture Billie Holiday in a brightly colored dress, all bold shoulders, fluttering skirts, and narrow waist. Or in a structured plaid suit with a soft chiffon blouse beneath it. "Masculine marries the feminine" is how the designer described the overall feel of the collection, which also included slouchy men's cardigans worn over hourglass dresses in prints named after the Cotton Club, the Lenox Lounge, and other hot spots of the era.