"My starting point was Mr. Blass' sketchbooks circa 1969-1970," said Peter Som, at the presentation of his first collection for the fabled American house. Som stayed true to the founder's focus on sportswear, especially when it came to coats. A plaid stadium number was worth cheering for, as were a glamorous broadtail and silver fox topper and the subtle shaved-corduroy minks. Menswear touches borrowed from sailors, waiters, and bankers mingled with sequined cocktail dresses and hammered satin gowns. "I wanted to update Blass classics with luxury and whimsy," the designer explained. So far, so good.