Leave it to an Italian to make a New York fashion week presentation feel like a party. With Alberta Ferretti's short and sweet Fall Philosophy show playing on a frequent loop, the crowd of editors and familiar social faces at the Eyebeam gallery was free to take in the wares, have a drink, and mingle at an unhurried—let's call it Mediterranean—pace. The 23-look collection revolved mostly around the juxtaposition of boyish tailored coats (these in navy wool and tweed) and girlishly sexy little dresses. "It's a new way to coordinate the masculine and the feminine," explained Ferretti. "It's the mix that's interesting." In its many variations, Ferretti's outerwear had terrific appeal, but the lion's share of attention went to the dresses. These were in fact ingenious ensembles of separate pieces—say, a velvet apron dress worn over a sequined tulle slip. With all the black lace, there was a distinct boudoir feel, but Ferretti dispelled any sordid notions. "My customer is open in her sensuality," she said. "But I don't like the too-aggressive woman." Sex-tape starlets, take heed.
