"A concentrated dose of glamour": That was how Naeem Khan described his 26-look Fall show. He also said that it reflected the reality of his woman—i.e., the reality of a highly social, limelight-loving, international creature in endless need of sumptuous after-eight gear. On the glossy (not to say slippery) black runway, Khan began strongly with haute bohemian, vaguely Russian coats and dresses, intricately embroidered and trimmed with fox. He maintained momentum with beaded lace columns and a plum chiffon gown with chunky crystal trim. But excess took over when he opened up a treasure chest of coq feathers, marbled paillettes, pearls, gold bullion, and coins. Some of these embellishments were manageable when applied to cocktail-length dresses, but mostly they seemed to hobble the models. Khan plans to make a bigger-than-ever push for the upcoming Oscars—strike? what strike?—but it's likely to be his lighter fare, such as a flowy digitized ikat-print number, that will make the red-carpet cut.
