It didn't take Dave Gahan belting out his solo hit "Kingdom" to establish the quintessential darkness of this collection. From the low-belted cardigan coat at the beginning to the bugle-beaded cutaway jacket at the end, designer Massimiliano Giornetti explored the shadowy side of the fashion spectrum. One might even suppose that a greatcoat lined in lynx was meant to underscore the endgame with which Giornetti was toying. Likewise, the overt extravagance of a crocodile trench.
But both those items struck discordant notes in a collection that was otherwise absorbed by industrial luxury—techno aristo, if you will. An evening look of a tailcoat teamed with black leather pants was one of its clearest embodiments. At the other extreme were baggy nylon pants paired with a hooded knit top. The use throughout of formal details such as tuxedo shirts and cummerbunds also helped to emphasize the hybrid nature of the collection. And check the endless lapel variations: as big as wings on one coat; doubled—shawl and peak—on a jacket; silvered on another. In fact, it was in silver that Giornetti found his light relief. When he used it in shirts and ties, it shimmered like moonlight in the surrounding night.
