With scrubbed faces and hair held back by rolled and knotted white scarves, the models at Loewe looked fresh from a day at the Eden Roc spa. That impression was backed up by Spanish designer José Enrique Oña Selfa's concentration on timely, short silhouettes—tunics, sack dresses, wraps—and further locked in by the details. The show's colorful silk floral prints, for instance, were trimmed with thick white piping that put one in mind of terrycloth robes.
Loewe began 160 years ago as a Madrid saddlery, and making sense of the house signature in a spring collection isn't necessarily an easy proposition. Oña Selfa didn't offer any definitive solutions, but working that same flower motif, he finessed the challenge, embroidering super-lightweight suede with silver thread or appliquéing foil-thin silver patent onto a halter dress and a coat. If his dresses got tricky with their cowl necks and double-belts, or tangles of yarn-like fringe, his leathers never did.
