An opening burst of Prince's "Pop Life" on the soundtrack signposted designer Christophe Lemaire's tip of the cap to the Purple One's Riviera fantasy Under the Cherry Moon, after which the rest of the show unspooled as a vision of a summer spent by the Mediterranean. From navy blazers, nautical stripes, and yachting whites to pastel-shirt and pleated-pant combos to a hot orange polo paired with aqua slacks, Lemaire took his men from the marina at Cannes to Les Caves du Roy in Saint-Tropez. And a djellaba-like shirt made for appealing loungewear. But for all the color, there was an oddly buttoned-down quality to the collection, possibly because the Big Idea was everything matching (which can look a little de trop when what's matching is pistachio or pink). The trompe l'oeil loosened tie that decorated that orange polo did, however, evoke a wayward flash of Anthony Michael Hall in his eighties heyday—and in context, that wasn't such a bad thing.
