Raf Simons's invitation was a cryptic list of people, places, and things that have made a difference to the world. The inescapable implication was that his name could be on that list, too. Which might not be such a stretch; Simons has undoubtedly made a difference to the world of menswear, and this collection only served to underscore the power and originality of his vision.
Once absorbed by radical punk icons and slogans, Simons has now shifted his frame of reference to an earlier period: specifically, the moment when Kraftwerk put its pop culture spin on the nexus between man and machine. Using a palette pared to black, white, and shades of pale gray, he expressed his tailoring skill in linear, luxurious suits and coats that had a Gattaca flair. Suspendered stirrup pants made the silhouette even leaner (and topical; with the Olympics looming, it read as a gymnastics reference). Then the leanness exploded, in triple-pleated leather trousers, funnel-necked tops, and huge white coats that floated like angel wings. On that optimistic note, Simons concluded a stunning show that felt like a fresh start for him.
